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Tequila: A Primer

 


Tequila has long been synonymous with Margaritas, but until recently few outside Mexico viewed it as a drink of the elite. That’s changing—and with good reason. Since the 1990s, many producers have worked toward quality standards set by the International Organization for Standarization (ISO 9000), and they are producing ever-finer Tequilas. These days, Tequilas of the highest quality can be appreciated much like a fine cognac or single-malt whiskey.

Agave plant

Tequila production is really a simple, straightforward process in which juice from the fermented heart of the starchy blue agave plant is distilled. The blue agave has long bluish-gray swordlike leaves; although it appears to be a cactus, it isn't. Rather, it's related to the lily.

After harvest, the heart of the agave (see photo, below) is "cooked" in huge ovens to break starches down into sugar. The liquid produced is then fermented and distilled twice, producing a clear tequila.

That’s the short version of the process. Below you'll find a step-by-step overview of the tequila-making process.

 


Collecting the piña: Tequila is the only beverage in the world with a denomination of origin requiring a raw material (in this case, the agave plant) that takes more than seven years to mature. When the agave is between 7-10 years old, its leaves are removed and it is taken from the soil to extract its “piña” or heart. The heart is then taken to the factory, where it is divided in two or four parts.

 

Agave Hearts waiting to be processed - © Suzanne Rodriguez

Piñas (agave hearts) at Los Osuna Plantation near Mazatlan

 

Cooking of the piña: The piñas are placed in ovens—modern autoclaves or traditional masonry ovens—to obtain their fermentable sugars. The ovens are heated with steam from 18 to 48 hours, cooking the piñas until the head has a high sugar content.

 

An agave heart - © Suzanne Rodriguez

Closeup of a piña

 

Extraction of syrup and pulp: The piña head is placed in a mill or shredder, and pressed until the juice is released. Highly pressurized water is sprayed over the pulp, extracting the sugars. The resultant pulp is a diluted agave juice. Anywhere from 121 to 132 pounds of pulp are discarded to produce one liter of tequila. The extracted agave juice or syrup is piped to the preparation or fermentation vats.

 

Pressing the agave - © Suzanne Rodriguez

Pressing the agave.

 

Fermentation: This is the term used for transforming the sugars into ethyl alcohol (and other by-products). Huge stainless steel vats are filled with the syrups, also called musts. Yeasts and fermentation nutrients are added. Fermentation time varies depending on the surrounding temperature, which changes with the seasons, but usually takes more than 30 hours.

 

The products of any fermentation process are alcohol, carbon dioxide, water, and energy released in the form of heat. While fermenting, the must is effervescent; bubbling ends when the work of the yeasts—converting sugars to alcohol—is done. At this point it’s customary to say “the must is dead.”

 

Distillation: Using heat and pressure, alcohol, water, and solid materials are separated to create a product with a higher alcohol content—that is, Tequila. Vinzas, a residue or fermentation waste consisting of water and yeasts, is also produced via this process; it is discarded. The distillation process takes place in double stills made of copper or stainless steel. These stills basically consist of three parts: the pot or cauldron (where the must is placed); the column or capital (which collects and conducts the steam); and the coil (in which the steam is cooled and turned into liquid). The boiling points of the various ingredients, as well as the different volumes and pressures of the still, help gases to separate and condense into products with a higher alcoholic content.


Classification: A Tequila's classification is determined by its quality, and ultimately affects the price you pay. Two quality categories exist:

  • 100% Blue Agave Tequila (indicated on the bottle as Tequila 100% de agave or Tequila 100% puro de agave) is produced only with sugars from the blue agave. This is the elite of all Tequilas.

  • Tequila is made using 51% agave sugars and 49% other sugars.

The second division, Tequila, consists of five sub-categories. From lowest- to highest-quality, they are:

  1. Tequila Blanco (White or Silver): Unaged, clear in color, bottled immediately after distillation. The least expensive Tequila.

  2. Tequila Joven (Gold): Basically this is Blanco Tequila to which flavors and coloring has been added, with the intent of giving it a smooth taste.

  3. Tequila Reposado (Aged): Tequila has aged in wood for at least two months and as long as one year. French and white oak are common woods used in this aging. This product can be decanted and left at least two months in oak or helm oak containers. Its commercial alcoholic content, when necessary , has to be diluted with water.

  4. Tequila Añejo (Extra-aged): Aged in oak a minimum of one year and up to three years. Woods used are french oak casks, cognac barrels, American whiskey barrels. tequila: A product that can be decanted, is subject to an aging process of at least a year in oak or helm oak containers, with a maximum capacity of 600 liters (158.5 gallons) and with a commercial alcoholic content that if needed, must be diluted with water.

  5. Tequila Extra Añejo (Ultra-Aged): Aged at least three years in oak, often much longer.


 

    

  

All written material ©WGH ~ Photos: © Suzanne Rodriguez (piña images, pressing the agave)


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