Sprawled
dramatically across hills and terraces
overlooking the wide Vltava River, Prague—capital
city of the Czech Republic—looks
like something out of a childhood fairy tale. It’s filled with Gothic
castles, Renaissance palaces, twisting Medieval streets, and
centuries-old stone bridges. It’s also home to countless ancient
cathedrals and churches crowned by bell towers, onion domes, and
steeples. No wonder Prague is nicknamed “The City of a Thousand
Spires.”
That
Prague has survived so beautifully into the 21st century is something
of a miracle. Although caught between Germany and Poland, the city
managed to escape World War II largely intact—only to descend into
decades of stagnant existence under Communist rule. When the Iron
Curtain finally fell in 1991, the world re-discovered Prague’s
splendid, 1000-year-old architectural heritage, leading to its 1992
inclusion as a UNESCO
World
Heritage Site.
Although the Czech Republic became a member of the European Economic
Community in 2004, it continues to utilize the Czech Koruny rather
than the Euro. For travelers, this makes Prague more reasonable than
most of western Europe—especially
in early spring, winter, or late fall—when summer's crowds are long
gone.
Prague Castle: With buildings dating back more than a millennium, hilltop
Prague Castle—once
the
home of mighty Emperors and kings—offers a fascinating overview of
western architectural styles from Gothic onward. Almost a city in
itself, the complex contains five palaces, two churches, and countless
other buildings. You can amble through gardens, visit the world’s
second-largest toy museum, attend a courtyard production of
Shakespeare, view the formal Changing of the Guard accompanied by
trumpets, and much more. Plan on spending the day here...maybe longer.
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St. Nicholas Church: With its huge dome and tower
rising 243 feet above Malá Strana Square, its white façade glowing in
the sun, and a lavishly ornate interior, St. Nicholas is ranked among
the most stunning baroque churches in Europe (and check out the organ
played by Mozart himself in 1787). The church was completed in 1735,
but it wasn't until the 20th century, when a building that stood
in front of it was destroyed, that the gleaming white church could be
admired from the Square. ~ Across the river in the old Jewish
quarter of Josefov is the illustrious
Maisel Synagogue. Originally
built in 1582, the present Baroque-style building dates from the late
19th century and houses a fabulous collection of Jewish silver, art,
textiles, and books.
Museums²:
The elegant 18th century
Sternberg
Palace houses part of the nation's impressive collection of European Old
Masters such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, Rembrandt, Goya, El Greco,
van Dyck, Rubens, and more. ~ For modern art, head to the
Trade Fair
Palace, a masterpiece of early modern architecture completed in
1928. It boasts an impressive collection of Czech and European art
from the late 19th-21st centuries. Paintings, sculpture, furniture,
fashion, and other arts are represented.
~
The Museum of Czech Cubism is housed in the 1912 Black Madonna
House, itself an exemplar of Cubist architecture. The collection
includes works by leading Czech cubists of the early 20th century.
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Dancing House.
Not everything in Prague is ancient, as this downtown office building
designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic attests. Surrounded by
traditional Baroque, Gothic, and Art-Nouveau architecture, the
deconstructivist Dancing House was a sensation when it was completed in
1996—but not necessarily a hit with all the city's residents, some of
whom referred to it as the Drunk House (the
shock has since died down). From the roof—currently the site of a
highly-rated French restaurant, Le Perle de Prague—views of the city
are sensational. A nickname for the building is Ginger & Fred, after
Astair and Rogers. By the way, the official name of this construction
is not Dancing House—it's the much less interesting Nationale-Nederlanden Building.
Wenceslas Square:
Dating back to the 1300s, this wide street has witnessed some of
Prague’s most historical moments—in 1989, a meeting here kicked off
the "Velvet Revolution" that ultimately brought down the Communist
regime. These days
Wenceslas Square is the city’s main shopping area. You’ll find
locally-run boutiques and antique shops, as well as shopping gallerias
filled with familiar European designers. Centrally located and popular
with everybody, the Square is a great place to hunker down in a café
(there are dozens), sip coffee, and watch the world going about its
business.
Old Town
Square: This
Square's history dates back to the 10th century, when it was a
thriving marketplace in a young town. One of the highlights here is
the hourly march of the Twelve Apostles on the medieval Astronomical
Clock, but it's also fun to just stroll around this oldest portion of
Prague. Stop off to visit magnificent monuments like St. Vitus
Cathedral, where for centuries the kings of Bohemia were crowned. Cross the Moldau River on
Gothic, 14th century Charles Bridge,
which connects Old Town to Mala Strana. The bridge is lined with
Baroque statuary dating back to the 1600s, although many of the
originals have been removed to museums and replaced by copies.
Vrtba Gardens: You’ll swoon over this unique gem, a
Baroque terraced garden nestled beneath Prague Castle. With its early 1700s
Italianate terraces, ornate staircases, romantic sculptures of Roman
gods and goddesses, an aviary, pavilion, and jaw-dropping views, it's
no wonder that it's considered one of Europe's most beautiful Baroque gardens. As
you can see in this photo, the
Vrtba Gardens were
honored on a Czech Republic postage stamp. ~
Another urban eden: popular Stromovka Park.
This tree-filled former royal hunting park
dates back to the 1200s, and it's where locals come to stroll, bicycle, skate, and ride horses.
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Ceský Krumlov: For an unforgettable excursion,
visit this amazingly intact Medieval and Renaissance-era town 100
miles south of Prague. On the banks of the Vltava River,
Ceský Krumlov—with
its red-tile roofs, narrow streets, fountains, and statuary—evolved
over centuries around a splendid 13th century castle. It’s fun getting
lost in the maze of cobbled alleys, where ancient buildings now hold
cafés, boutiques, and art galleries. Like Prague,
Ceský Krumlov is a
World
Heritage Site. For music lovers the best time to be here is in
summer, during the annual
Cesky Krumlov International Music Festival;
it runs for more than three weeks and attracts a diverse range of
musicians from the Czech Republic and around the world.
Prague-Vienna
Greenways: Up for adventure? Consider hiking or biking the
Prague-Vienna Greenways—a series of country roads, trails, and
natural corridors that help preserve natural/cultural
heritage while providing endless recreational options.
Depending on your itinerary, you'll travel along ancient salt and
silver trade routes, visit castles and historic villages, go horseback
riding or canoeing, take in UNESCO World Heritage Sites or Biospheres, view rare
birds, enjoy a concert or a local festival, make your way through grassy
meadows and along trails, go wine- or beer-tasting—and that's just a
start. You can travel as much or as little of the Greenways as you like
(Vienna's a 250- to 350-mile trip, depending on which adventures you
chase along the way). You can travel completely on your own, having
luggage delivered to your next hotel, or arrange for a guide trek. Maps and
more information can be found at the website for the nonprofit group,
Friends of the Czech
Greenways.
