Ancient
towns nestled into steep cliffs; a rugged, largely untouched landscape;
and sweeping vistas of sandy coves, colorful fishing boats, and the
always-changing Mediterranean Sea—that's
the Amalfi Coast. Running along the southern side of Italy's Sorrentine
Peninsula, for centuries the area served as a playground for Roman emperors.
Today, aside from beauty, it offers rich cultural traditions, fantastic regional
foods (particularly seafood), excellent wines, and thousands of years of art
and architectural heritage. No wonder the entire coast is a
UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
But the Amalfi Coast is certainly not
stuck in the past. You’ll find every modern convenience in its small hotels,
the most fashionable of duds in boutiques lining the narrow, cobbled streets,
mouth-watering offerings in trattorias overlooking picturesque harbors. And
as if the area's myriad pleasures weren’t enough, you'll have easy
access to nearby “must-sees” like the islands of Capri and Ischia, legendary Pompeii,
and the large city of Naples.
Our advice: don't
honeymoon here in summer, when this glorious coast is overwhelmed by
crowds. But what a destination for a post-wedding journey in spring or
autumn!
Amalfi: With its
steep, winding streets and simple white houses perched above the water and
surrounded by towering cliffs, the picturesque town of Amalfi—once the seat
of a maritime republic powerful enough to rival Venice—gave its name to the entire coast.
Most tourists tend to congregate in the lower part of town, along the water. But if you tire of the crowds, head
uphill: the further you
go, the fewer people you'll see.
But you'll definitely want
to start off on the waterfront, the center of Amalfi action. Stroll around, taking in the views and
excitement, and the central piazza filled with shops and cafés. Check out 9th century St. Andrea Cathedral, with its Islamic-Norman
architecture, notable bell tower, and 13th
century Moorish-styled, mosaic-laden Cloister of
Paradise.
At the Civic Museum you’ll see original maritime laws dating back to the
1500s, as well as agricultural tools and other artifacts. Amalfi has a
centuries-long tradition of paper-making—the paper
used for papal decrees has been produced here for centuries. The town's
paper museum is
fascinating, with equipment from early Renaissance times. When
you're through, stroll the lemon- and olive-tree lined footpaths surrounding
town. Lost in the sight of pastel-colored buildings clinging to the cliff below you and the sea
stretching before you, you may never want to come down.
Island of
Capri:
Hop a ferry to magical
Capri, located in the Bay
of Naples. From the harbor you can ride a Funicular to the village of Capri;
once there, take a chairlift to the mountainous island’s top for an
incomparable view. The narrow streets and walkways around the island offer
fabulous views—but none more captivating than you'll find on Via Krupp,
which gives new meaning to the word "switchack." Start at the top in the
Gardens of Augustus (perched at the 400-foot level), and then meander
downward.
Almost every visitor
makes a trip to Capri's huge sea cave, the
Blue
Grotto. The only way to enter the cave's tiny opening is in a
two- or three-person rowboat, with everyone lying flat as you pass through.
Once inside, you can sit up...and marvel over the surreal surroundings.
Light reflects off and in the water in such a way that you'll feel as if
you're floating across a strange sky. Many boats have a see-through bottom,
allowing you to peer at fish swimming below. In general, light conditions
are best around noon. Be forewarned: cave tours don't run when the water's rough or choppy.
~ The ruins of
Villa
Jovis, one of the best-preserved Roman palaces in Italy, are
definitely worth a visit. Constructed as a combination fortress and luxurious imperial residence in
the 1st Century AD by the Roman emperor Tiberius, the villa affords amazing views
across the Bay of Naples. Ancient lore has it that, when Tiberius was
displeased with someone, he had them thrown off the cliff.
Pompeii: When Mt.
Vesuvius violently erupted in 79 AD, it completely buried the luxurious
Roman vacation resort of Pompeii beneath 20 feet of ash for nearly 1700
years. Today, after centuries of excavation, you can walk the streets of
this city frozen in time. You’ll visit villas decorated with frescoes and
mosaic floors more than 2000 years old, sit in the amphitheater, wander in a wine
shop, study plaster casts of victims who died in of the eruption. There are
temples, public baths, restaurants, even a house of ill repute. Want to see
even more? Go to nearby Herculaneum, another Roman town victimized by Mt.
Vesuvius.
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Local Comfort Food &
Spirits: One of the best reasons to be on the Amalfi Coast is to devour
the cuisine, especially seafood. Of the countless mouth-watering specialties
of this region, the signature dish may be the simple but elegant Spaghetti
con Vongole—spaghetti with clams. With or without tomatoes (i.e., red sauce or
white sauce), it's a mainstay of trattorias and restaurants throughout the
country. But nowhere is it better than here on the coast.
Here's a recipe.
Also give the locally-made
liqueur, Limoncello, a try. Sweet and bright yellow, its
chief ingredient, aside from alcohol and sugar, is lemon rind. It's usually
served chilled after dinner and is also great on a hot day when added to a glass
of lemonade or dabbled over vanilla ice cream.
»»Check out
other comfort foods
in the
USA and
around the world
Positano: With
stunning views, ten beautiful beaches, and white buildings descending steeply
down the mountainside, Positano—whose narrow alleyways are lined with
outdoor cafés and shops—is famed for its beauty. A simple fishing village in
the 1950s, it's now a popular destination for writers, artists—and maybe the
two of you. A recognized fashion center with its own label (Moda Positano), the
town contains many upscale boutiques.
Culturally, Positano is
probably best known for the majolica-tiled dome and 13th-century Byzantine black Madonna icon
of Santa Maria Assunta
Church.
The mountains along the
coast are riddled with ancient foothpaths, and from Positano you can walk to other villages
while blissing-out over one of the world's best views. Walk or ride the local bus uphill to
the last stop, and then walk to ancient Nocelle; carved into the mountain, it has about 120 inhabitants. If you're
feeling vigorous, ask a resident for directions to the Nocelle steps, and,
instead of walking, climb nearly 2250 stairs to the village instead (most
people go to Nocell via the path and return via the steps).
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Ischia: Slide into
the therapeautic waters of a volcanic hot spring—they’re everywhere on this,
the largest island in the Bay of Naples. Ischia’s thermal spas may have
changed over the centuries, but they’ve attracted visitors since the days of
ancient Romans, and probably long before that. When you’re not immersed in steaming mineral water, visit Castello Aragonese, a mid-15th century castle built on a volcanic rock in
the main harbor where Michelangeo once visited. To learn more about the
island’s past, visit the Archeological Museum at Villa Arbusto.
Honeymoon Splurge:
Rent
one of
three light-filled luxury apartments available in 1400s Castello
Aragonese, perched high above the sea on the island of Ischia. The Minore
and Maggiore apartments—each with a bedroom, living room, kitchen,
bathroom, and sea views—are perfect for two (the spacious third
apartment, Campanile, is suitable for four). All three apartments are
located at a distance from each other, guaranteeing absolute privacy.
You'll reside within the castle walls, falling asleep to the sound of
waves and awakening to the careening calls of seagulls. Rates by the
week.
»»Read about
other honeymoon splurges around the world
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Ravello: Nestled above the
Amalfi Coast at its highest point (about 1200'), Ravello’s magnificent views and stellar charms have
attracted creative people for centuries, including composer Richard Wagner,
writers Virginia Woolf and Truman Capote, and artist M. C. Escher.
Villa
Rufolo, a medieval castle with extensive Mediterranean gardens,
affords
panoramic views of cliff and sea while surrounding you with rare plants and
flowers. People have always been fascinated by this place. In The
Decameron, completed around 1352, Boccaccio told the tale of a wealthy
Ravello merchant, Landolfo Rufolo—a barely disguised pseudonym for
super-rich Lorenzo Rufolo, who built the Villa in 1270. During the
summer, the Ravello Festival, known more popularly as the "Wagner Festival,"
takes place in the Villa's gardens. That's entirely fitting, since Richard
Wagner was inspired to create his opera Parsifal—about a medieval
knight's quest for the Holy Grail—during a visit to the Villa.
~
Also in Ravello is pretty 11th-century San Giovanni del Toro Church (St. John of the Bull). Recently restored, it contains many mosaic and majolica features.
More Info:
Italian Tourism website
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