Most people
arrive on St. John
by the
forty-minute water ferry from St. Thomas—and what a
great experience that is! During the day, crowded with island-hoppers
ogling the stupendous views of islands and turquoise water, the ferry takes on
a festive atmosphere. At night the ferries are nearly empty and the trip is
magical. The stars and maybe a moon brighten up the sky, the trades blow, the
lights in St. John's Cruz Bay grow slowly closer.
Also
See: Caribbean Index |
Antigua & Barbuda |
Aruba |
Bahamas |
Barbados |
Bermuda |
Caymans |
Curaçao |
Grenada |
Jamaica |
Martinique |
Puerto Rico |
St. Croix |
St. Lucia |
St. Thomas |
Turks & Caicos |
Virgin Gorda/BVI
Two thirds
of this rugged, volcanic island comprise the
Virgin Islands National Park (including thousands of
protected underwater acreage), making it the least developed of the USVI’s
three major islands. The non-Park portion contains excellent small hotels and
guest houses, resorts, and fine restaurants. There’s even a bit of
nightlife. However, if bright lights really matter to you, stick to St.
Thomas. St. John is for those who want quiet moments and really love
the Great Outdoors.
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And great
it is! More than 20 miles of hiking trails criss-cross the Park, letting you
get up close and personal with a stunning array of exotic flora and fauna.
Thick tropical forest gives way to arid, desert-like terrain. Geckos and
Iguana scurry past a salt-collecting pond; a bright yellow Bananaquit zips
over your head; herons and egrets browse the waters of a mangrove lagoon. As
you stroll along, you’ll experience bits of fascinating history: ruins of
Danish sugar plantations, ancient petroglyphs attributed to Arawak Indians, a
crumbling wooden shack. Then, suddenly, the trail ends as you walk onto the
most pristine, white-powder beach you’ve ever seen.
The
National Park Service Visitor Center, close to the ferry
dock, is a helpful place where you can pick up brochures & trail maps, and also learn
about free guided ranger tours. Try the excellent birding tour on the Francis Bay Trail, which winds through lovely forest and ends on a secluded
beach; along the way you’ll probably spot masked boobies, pelicans,
green-backed and little blue herons—maybe even a rare smooth-billed ani.
Honeymoon splurge:
The U.
S. Virgin Islands (and its neighbor, the British Virgin Islands) are famed
for fabulous sailing. That's why the area is an easy place to charter a
fully-crewed yacht (always a captain, often a cook as well, and more crew
if it's a big, expensive boat). You work out the itinerary with the
captain, decide how you want the galley stocked, and then you'll just
relax as you glide across the sea with halyards clinking and the mainsail
filled with wind.
You'll anchor in
out-of-the-way coves or lively harbor towns, sleep in a comfy cabin,
thrive in the sun and salt air. This kind of trip is a dream, really—one
you'll always remember. BTW, if you already know how to sail, bareboat
charters are easily available.
»»Read about
other honeymoon splurges around the world
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Another idea:
take a self-guided environmental nature hike (the trail starts right behind
the Visitor Center). The leisurely two-mile trail climbs up, affording great
views of the harbor, and then descends, ultimately ending at legendarily
beautiful Honeymoon Beach.
Consider
splurging on one of the many snorkel/dive tours available. A “full-day”
tour (usually about 6 hours) will probably take you around the island, stopping
now and then at a particularly good snorkel or dive spot—maybe amidst
tiny coral islets with a diverse collection of coral and the largest starfish
you’ll ever see; or at the mouth of a mangrove forest, where, in the
crystal-clear water, tens of thousands of tiny baby fish are protected from
predators too big to swim inside the mangrove roots. On full-day trips like
this, lunch and drinks are usually provided.
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Snorkelers
and scuba divers are in for a treat in these parts. Because
they’re protected, reefs here have fared far better than others around the
world that have been damaged by pollution and careless boaters. Although
nothing can prevent the destruction being wreaked on coral reefs everywhere by
global warming, St. John reefs are still beautiful: the
waters are home to at least 200 species of fish and over 40 species of coral.
It’s not unusual to see red snapping shrimp or hawksbill turtles as you glide
along, either.
Annaberg Sugar Plantation is
always worth a visit. Perched high atop a hill, the 18th century plantation
was once highly successful. Today a trail marked with descriptive signs leads
you on a self-guided tour through the terraced property, with its picturesque
stone ruins—a sugar mill, a 38-foot windmill, the scant remains of slave
cabins. The views from here are superb.
St. John
has many casual as well as top-notch restaurants, many located in Cruz Bay near the
ferry terminal. That little town is a very walkable place, by the way. You'll
’ll have no problem finding a cafe or restaurant to suit your mood, tastes, and pocketbook.
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Incidentally,
St. John has more than 40 beaches to explore, and they’re all beautiful.
Some, like Hawksnest and Cinnamon Bay, are popular and can be
a tad crowded. On
most others you’ll have plenty of space, and maybe even find yourselves alone.
Trunk Bay Beach—consistently voted "the most beautiful beach in the world" in
one poll after another (it's pictured at the top)—is a must for snorkelers: it’s got a superb
underwater trail that leads you past fascinating coral formations; submerged plaques describe the sea life surrounding you.
More Info:
U. S. Virgin Islands Tourism Department
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