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St. Croix


Couple on beach at Davis Bay on St. Croix

 


There's something about St. Croix that makes you want to stick around for a while, exploring its wide-open spaces, gazing at its beautiful scenery, luxuriating in its slow pace and sampling the wide diversity of activities.

Fort Christiansvaern

If you can, arrive by seaplane—the flight is just a short hop from St. Thomas. It’s thrilling to land in the waters off Christiansted and taxi up to the dock. Built by the Danes in the mid-18th Century, this small and charming town is composed of graceful neo-classical buildings, many of which contain hotels, shops and restaurants. Everything is lovingly maintained; each block is filled with unique architectural details and fascinating historical artifacts. In fact, the entire area around the wharf has been designated the Christiansted National Historic Site, including yellow-brick Fort Christiansvaern (1749), which once protected townspeople from pirates.

The island’s other large town is Frederiksted, where cruise ships come to call (though not nearly as many as in St. Thomas). Rent a bike if you want to really explore the ins and outs of the town and its Victorian gingerbread architecture. Every other Wednesday Frederiksted hosts “Harbor Night,” an evening celebration with outdoor bands, dancing, art, and food.

Honeymoon splurge: The U. S. Virgin Islands (and its neighbor, the British Virgin Islands) are famed for fabulous sailing. That's why the area is an easy place to charter a fully-crewed yacht (always a captain, often a cook as well, and more crew if it's a big, expensive boat). You work out the itinerary with the captain, decide how you want the galley stocked, and then you'll just relax as you glide across the sea with halyards clinking and the mainsail filled with wind. You'll anchor in out-of-the-way coves or lively harbor towns, sleep in a comfy cabin, thrive in the sun and salt air. This kind of trip is a dream, really—one you'll always remember. BTW, if you already know how to sail, bareboat charters are easily available. »»Read about other honeymoon splurges around the world

 

A visit to St. Croix comes in two basic flavors. You can stay in either Christiansted or Frederiksted, enjoying the hybrid European/Caribbean town life right outside your front door; or you can book into one of the island’s remote resorts. In either case, you’ll probably want to venture out and explore the rest of the island. The easiest way to get around is to rent a car, but taxis and busses are also available.

The old windmill at Whim Greathouse

One route you’ll want to follow is the 28-mile St. Croix Heritage Trail, which teems with historical and cultural sites. Easy-to-follow markers lead to crumbling sugar plantations, the ruins of stone windmills, sugar-cane factories, and living cultural treasures such as the Lawaetz Museum. A 19th century “greathouse” with original furnishings, it’s still lived in by descendants of the original owners. Another stop is Whim Greathouse Museum, with its unusual, beautifully-restored 18th Century sugar plantation mansion, windmill, cookhouse, and many other buildings.

While pursuing the Heritage Trail, be sure to stop at Smithen Garden, a simple roadside stand that offers sugar cane juice by the cup—far less sweet than you’d imagine. It’s fun to watch the cane being pulped for your serving, while all around you the tall cane—the last surviving cane field on the island—bends in the ever-present trade winds.

Fern house at St George Village Botanical Garden

Another good idea: 16-acre St. George Village Botanical Garden, set amidst the restored buildings and ruins of a 19th century Danish sugar plantation. It's a great place to wander while soaking up a heady combination of history, island culture, and nature. You'll find more than 1500 native and exotic species, including bromeliads, cactus, succulents, and ferns. A conservation garden is planted with rare/endangered plants of the USVI and Puerto Rico. More than 60 species of orchids live here, many thriving in trees and some native to St. Croix. A Sansevieria garden has been planted around the sugar factory's former molasses cistern (now converted to a fountain and pool), and the Fern House (photo) is dazzling. A half-acre naturalized forest allows you to walk through trees, shrubs and vine that are strictly native to the island. There's much more here, including a delightful gift shop.

Buck Island

Do treat yourselves to an excursion at Buck Island Reef National Monument. The only underwater national monument in the U.S., the 176-acre island and 704 acres of surrounding water/coral reef have been protected since 1948. Many endangered species (e.g., hawksbill, leatherback, and green sea turtles) have critical nesting areas here. An extensive elkhorn coral barrier reef contains extraordinary coral formations, deep grottoes, sea fans, and a sealife rich enough for even the most experienced diver to appreciate. A marked snorkeling trail is easily maneuvered by first-timers.

Also See: Caribbean Index | Antigua & Barbuda | Aruba | Bahamas | Barbados | Bermuda | Caymans | Curaçao | Grenada | Jamaica | Martinique | Puerto Rico | St.  John | St. Lucia | St. Thomas | Turks & Caicos | Virgin Gorda/BVI

 


 

More Info: U. S. Virgin Islands Tourism Department

 

                             

  

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All written material ©WGH ~ Photos: National Park Service (Approaching Buck Island); U.S. Virgin Islands Tourism Department (all others).


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