It's hard to
exaggerate the beauty and charm of Quebec City. Four hundred years
old in 2008, QC is located upon, and graces the down-slopes of, a
steep bluff overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence River. The views, the
ancient stone buildings, the lively mixture of French and English
languages (often both in the same sentence!), the food, the wine, the
history, the nearly palpable joie de vivre... Even when the
narrow, cobbled streets get crowded, and they certainly do in summer,
you will be enthralled and energized by your surroundings.
Quebec City
actually
consists of two separate parts: the Old Town and a newer area that’s
grown up to the west. Most visitors never leave the Old Town—which, by
the way, is split into two sections of its own: a walled community known as the
Upper Village; and a community between the wall and the river known as
the Lower Village. You’ll travel easily between the two either on the
very steep Casse-Cou stairway or in the glass-walled funiculaire (more
info on both below).
Quebec City, you’ll
find, turns even the most dedicated list-maker into a spontaneous
explorer. When you step out in the morning
sun with your list of that day's “must-sees,” be prepared to get diverted from
your plans by historic sites and museums that capture your
attention, surprising musical concerts, pathways that lead off in a
new direction, sidewalk cafés that appear to be straight out of Left
Bank Paris, narrow cobbled alleyways, costumed vendors, and views so
magnificent they cause you to stop in your tracks and stay a while.
You’ll browse overflowing antique shops, taste local wines, join
historical tours, ride through the streets in a horse-drawn carriage,
cruise up and down the St. Lawrence River, be amazed by a
stilt-walking street performer or a man dressed like an 18th
century pirate. And the evenings? Not to worry: the restaurant and
club scene make the nights as rewarding as the days. Maybe you’ll
catch a magnificent fireworks display from the heights of town, or
walk along the shore beneath a full moon, with the ancient city
sparkling above.
Whatever you
do, don't let the many, many pleasures of this city keep you from
exploring the myriad wonders that lie outside its limits. Fabulous
day-trip (and beyond) destinations surround Québec City—this is, after
all, the region known as La Belle Province!
Why honeymoon here? It's
a gorgeous, historic waterfront city simply brimming with French
joie de vivre, ambience, and cuisine—and the easily-reached wilds
of Québec Province surround you. Plus: prices are similar to the US;
English is commonly spoken in QC and most nearby tourist destinations.
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Port of
Québec, 1700
The Old Port & Environs: At the
merging of the St. Lawrence and Saint Charles Rivers, Québec City's
dynamic Old Port—once a thriving dockside for European ships bringing supplies and
sailing away with New World furs—is not content to merely
serve as a window into yesteryear. Instead, it reflects the past but lives
in the present, bursting with beautiful gardens, arts displays, live performances, antique
shops, eateries, and landmark architecture. At the
Marché du Vieux-Port,
farmers from around the region sell produce or home-made products such as
pure maple syrup. Rue Saint-Paul has long been a haven for antique shops,
but you'll also find clothing boutiques, art galleries, small hotels, and
restaurants tucked into the wonderful old buildings lining this and other
streets. The port is also the
place to buy tickets for one of the sightseeing boats that cruises along
the river while offering commentary on passing sights. Some people prefer hopping the ferry that plies the short distance between QC and
the town of
Lévis
on the opposite bank—you'll still get great photos of QC from the water,
but at a far lower cost (and Lévis has its own set of charms worth
exploring).
Place-Royale, Petit Champlain & More:
The 1608 birthplace of French civilization
in North America, Place Royale is a small bit of land nestled between Cap
Diamant and the St. Lawrence River. Nod your head to the bronze statue of
Louis XIV that gave the Square its name, and then drop into the
Place-Royale Interpretation
Center, which tells the historic Square's story through exhibitions, a
multimedia show, and more. The surrounding area—with narrow, cobbled streets
and ancient stone buildings—brings four centuries
of history vividly to life. Visit
Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the 1688 church built on the foundations of
Champlain's original trading post, with its interesting white-and-gold interior.
Pedestrian-only Rue du Petit-Champlain, said to be the oldest street in
all of North America, maintains a small-town feel despite being filled
with restaurants, pubs, cafés, boutique hotels, and shops. A small museum
in Maison Chevalier (1752) holds
an interesting, and free, exhibit that shows how people lived in QC during
the 18th and 19th centuries. The
exciting, cutting-edge exhibits at
the Musée de la Civilisation
are a definite "must do." Be sure to stop
for photos at the inventive trompe l'oeil mural that portrays many of the city's
historic citizens.
The Ramparts: Also called walls or
fortifications, the beautifully-preserved ramparts here, which date from the
early 1600s, encircle the Upper Village. In part because it is North
America's last remaining walled city, Québec has been recognized since
1985 as a
UNESCO World Heritage
Site. The ramparts are also a National Historic Site of Canada (officially
known as the Fortifications
of Québec NHS), which results in a well-staffed Interpretation
Center below the walls and next to St.-Louis Gate (one of four surviving
gates into the city). Here you'll learn the history of the city's
fortifications through guides, exhibits, and models. You can also visit
the restored 1815 Esplanade Powder Magazine, one of many such niches
within the walls where gunpowder was once stored. Or take a self-guided
tour along the city's heights, walking atop the walls and through a
gate—just like people did centuries ago. About 3 miles of paths offer
stunning vistas, and side-paths will lead you off to countless other
attractions (or cafés just perfect for a rest stop).
Honeymoon splurge:
Precede your
visit to Quebec City with an unforgettable six-night, small-ship cruise up
the St. Lawrence River. Along the way you'll wind through the mesmerizing
1000 Islands (there are actually 1,870 islands in this 50-mile stretch of
river). You'll witness a candlelight procession at the religious shrine of
Notre Dame du Cap Shrine, take a guided tour of Montreal, ride in a
horse-drawn wagon through a "living" 1850 village, and much more. Each day
you'll be surrounded by the forested beauty of the majestic St. Lawrence;
you'll also be fascinated during those times your ship negotiates the
seaway and its locks. Add in the delicious meals, nightly entertainment,
and lots of on- and off-board activities, and when Day #7 dawns, you won't
want to disembark. Until, that is, you sail past Montmorency Falls and
spot Quebec City shining atop a distant hill. »»Read about
other honeymoon splurges around the world
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La
Citadelle: This star-shaped, stone
military installation—sometimes called the "Gibraltar of America"
because of its supposed impregnability—constitutes the
eastern portion of the city's fortifications. Construction began in
1820 and lasted until 1850.
La
Citadelle is an active military garrison, so individual visits are not
allowed, but one-hour guided group tours are available throughout the year on a
daily basis. They're more frequent in summer, when you also stand a better
chance of witnessing various military ceremonies, including the Changing
of the Guard. The Citadelle has been home to the Royal 22nd Regiment since
1920, and is also the second official residence of the nation's Governor
General, who otherwise resides in Ottawa. At meetings held in the residence
during World War II, Winston Churchill and Franklin Roosevelt approved
plans for D-Day. The Royal 22nd Regiment
Museum is located in a 1750 French powder magazine and a former military
prison. Its collections of medals, uniforms, weapons, fine arts
(stained-glass windows, china, sculpture, paintings), and artifacts
date from the earliest days of New France until the present.
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Hotel Château
Frontenac: Perched atop the steep bluff that overlooks the city and the St.
Lawrence River, this historic "castle" is one of Québec's—and
Canada's—most recognized landmarks; it's been cited, perhaps apocryphally,
as the most-photographed hotel on the continent. Built in 1893, the
Frontenac was one of a
series of grand, neo-chateau railway hotels built across Canada around
that time and destined to become icons (others include
The Empress in
Victoria, Château Lake Louise,
and the Banff Springs Hotel). Modeled after the châteaux of France's Loire
Valley, the Frontenac has hosted some of the world's major political figures (Queen
Elizabeth, Ronald Reagan, Charles de Gaulle), celebrities (Alfred
Hitchcock, Grace Kelly), and heroes (Charles Lindbergh). Throughout the hotel you'll
find photos celebrating this illustrious past, and you'll learn even more
in a light-hearted tour conducted by guides in period costume.
Read More about Canada:
Provinces & Territories Overview
•
Montreal
•
Quebec City
•
Saskatchewan Driving
Trip
• Toronto
•
Vancouver
•
Vancouver Island
•
Victoria
•
British Columbia:
Food Scene
•
British
Columbia: Golf
•
Quebec City Wine
Tour
•
Vancouver
Island's Wines & Brews
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Musée
National des Beaux-Arts: Housed in three buildings—one of them a jail for more than a century—the
Musée
National des Beaux-Arts is
dedicated to promoting and preserving Québec art of all periods. To that
end, it offers a compelling overview of the Québécois art scene, with more
than 27,000 works dating from the 17th century to today. In addition, a
significant collection of Inuit art contains works from throughout the
Canadian Arctic. Examples of what you'll see include the solid-gold
Ciborium, Monstrance, and Chalice created in 1810 for the parish of
L'Islet by goldsmith François
Ranvoyzé; John Lyman's stunning 1922
painting of a reclining nude man, Jeune Homme Indolent; Diane
Landry's 2001 Les Sédentaires
Clandestins, a sculptured/mechanistic installation; and Judas Ullulaq's carved stone Mother and Child.
While here, consider taking a tour of the former jail, led by a costumed
guide; you'll relive executions, visit actual cells, and learn some of the
building's secrets. All this—and a restaurant/patio with a view of the St.
Lawrence River, too.
Local Comfort Food: If you haven't
grown up in Québec Province, this dish may well be an acquired taste. But
Québécois of all kinds have been known to go on at great length about the
joys of Poutine, or about how much they miss indulging in it when they're
away from home. So just what is this wonderful concoction? Poutine in its most basic
form consists of french fries, topped by fresh cheese curds, and then
smothered with dark chicken gravy. A popular Poutine fan site
describes the dish as "mind-bogglingly fatty" and "at once repulsive and
delicious." Go figure! Poutine has many variations—substituting spaghetti sauce for
the gravy is one example, and apparently a version exists that utilizes
caviar. In Québec and other parts of Canada you can buy it easily in pubs,
roadside stands, and fast food places (including McDonald's and Burger
King, but these versions are considered inauthentic). In Québec City, try
the Poutine at one of half a dozen Chez Ashton
diners. A chain that got its start in 1969 by giving away free Poutine
samples, today it has nearly 30 diners throughout the Province.
»»Check out
other comfort foods
in the
USA and
around the world
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Montmorency Falls: Located a few
miles from town in the Parc de la
Chute-Montmorency, these spectacular falls are situated right at the mouth of the Montmorency River as it drops
over a cliff and into the Saint Lawrence River (at 275 feet, Montmorency
Falls are 100 feet higher than Niagara's). Climb up the steep staircases and
over the suspension bridge to view and photograph
the chute from various angles. Or just hop the aerial gondola at
the base of the falls for the swift ride up (and then walk down, if you like).
Up at the top you can dine at the
Manoir Montmorency, walk
(or, in winter, snowshoe) miles of parkland trails,
or simply revel in the view. En hiver, when the falls are frozen
solid, take an ice-climbing course right on the waterfall! If you're honeymooning in summer, try to be
here on a night when the falls become a backdrop for one of the scheduled
nights in the international fireworks competition. Il est vraiment
romantique!
Dufferin Terrace: To catch wonderful river
and city views, climb the steep Escalier Casse-Cou (Breakneck Stairs) or,
even better,
ride up in the glass-walled funiculaire. Dufferin Terrace—a long, landscaped
boardwalk stretching along the perimeter of the
plateau that holds Château Frontenac—provides
the city's best panoramic view of Old Québec, the St. Lawrence River
Valley, and the Laurentian Mountains. You'll have the place mostly to
yourselves early in the morning, but from then on the Terrace becomes
progressively more populated with street performers,
vendors, and, of course, visitors. The scene is romantic at night, with lights
twinkling up and down
the river valley and in the city below. On the
Terrace's southern end you can jump off onto the Promenade des
Gouverneurs, which runs below the Citadel and eventually takes you to the Plains of Abraham.
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The Plains of Abraham: In the 17th
century, a man named Abraham grazed his cattle on a broad and flat expanse
in Quebec City. English speakers
would have called it "Abraham's land," but in French they referred to it
as "les plaines d'Abraham"—and the name stuck. Over the years the
Plains witnessed a lot of history. They were the site of a ferocious 1759
French/British battle that changed the continent's history (the Brits won);19th century
military reviews were carried out here, usually watched by crowds of
spectators; and there were scores of entertainments and ceremonial events.
In 1908 the Plains were transformed into Canada's first national urban
park (part of the larger Battlefields Park), the
equivalent of New York City's
Central Park. Today the
Plains of Abraham, with meadows, grassy hillocks, 6000 trees, and the
French classical-style Joan of Arc Garden (photo), offers a wealth of activities
and a peaceful oasis for 4 million yearly visitors. Enjoy a picnic while
taking in a free concert at the bandstand. Spend the day walking trails
(or cross-country skiing in winter), stopping to read interpretive panels
or stretch out with a book in a peaceful spot. Pitch in and help at a
genuine archaeological excavation at Cap Diamant. In Martello Tower 2—one
of 16 such towers built by the British in North America—help unmask the
1814 traitor who sold secrets to the enemy. And that's just a start on
what goes on here day in and day out. The Park hosts many
celebrations and activities throughout the year, particularly during the
Fête Nationale du Québec, the
Québec Winter Carnival, and the
Québec City
Summer Festival, all amazingly good-time extravaganzas.
»»Get a Plains
of Abraham Map
Île d'Orléans:
When French explorer Jacques Cartier landed on this island
in 1535 he named it the Île de Bacchus,
thanks to its proliferation of wild
grapes. The name soon changed to
Île d'Orléans, but grapes and much else
continue to grow here. In fact, this beautiful island—a few miles from
Québec City—is known as the Garden of Québec thanks to its bountiful
production of fresh produce, seasonal fruit, maple syrup, cheeses, and
wines. It's also home to six incredibly picturesque villages filled with
hundreds of ancient architectural treasures, forests, lovely rolling
farmland, and ever-present river views. At the
Parc Maritime de
Saint-Laurent, which occupies a former shipyard, you can watch a
traditional river coaster being built. Tour the magnificent
Manoir
Mauvide-Genest, a solid stone country castle with outbuildings intact,
to learn how wealthy French seigneurs lived in the 1750s. Visit the
island's wineries. The upper
floor of
Espace Félix-LeClerc holds a small museum dedicated to that famed
Québécois poet, writer, folk singer, actor, and advocate for Québec
nationalism. The island makes for a great day trip and also works
beautifully as a base from which to explore Québec City and the
surrounding countryside.
For more
information, contact the official
Quebec City Tourism website
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